Final Project & Essay - Gail S.

Rule of Three Necklace and Earring Set

I created this Bronze and Fine Silver necklace and earring set as a tribute to the craft jewelers of the 1920’s and 1960’s. I have always admired the simple, clean lines of the modernist studio jewelry movement, and our readings on American Craft history really solidified my appreciation for the art forms that came from this time.

Modernism, as a design philosophy, came to America through the immigrant-refugee fine art and craft population in the early 1920’s. This concept, born in Germany’s Bauhaus design schools as early as 1917, swept the United States and Europe throughout the 1920’s – 1960’s. Modernist design pushed the highly ornamental Art Deco design far out of fashion very quickly. The new Modernism eschewed simplicity, demanded honest treatment of materials, and a definite lack of flourish in presentation. Items could be hand wrought or partially machine made as long as they stayed true to the ideals of the movement. The artists in this genre generally produced one-of-a-kind, pieces. The pieces could be very sleek or loosely organic, with tool marks visually evident on their pieces. The hand of the artist could be seen in the work. That’s an ideal that harkens back to the original founders of the Arts & Crafts movement.

The following are some of the best known modernist studio jeweler/craftsman from 1928 – 1950’s; Alexander Calder, Sam Kramer, Ed Weiner, Art Smith, Betty Cooke, Peter Macchiarini, Margaret De Patta, and Frank Rebajes,  Ed Levin, and finally Paul Lobel.  This group of artists is highly collected internationally. They are a inspiration for my work in metal smithing and enameling.

The set pictured was created from a simple slab of recycled bronze that was pounded to 1/8” inch thickness. I then soldered and inset slivers of pounded fine silver onto the surface, and drilled holes for the chain. I enjoy working with bronze because it is reminiscent of ancient materials and is malleable enough to take on just about any shape. It is stronger than copper or silver, so it wears well, plus it appears warmer and richer in color than brass. Because bronze is made from 80% copper and 20% tin, when the bronze comes in contact with fine silver (.999), the copper is attracted to the silver and moves to border it on the surface. This process of bringing a single metal to the surface of an alloy is called depletion gilding. When this process happens the surface becomes wrinkled or reticulated in jewelry terminology. The insets appear to have a halo of surface copper surrounding them. They almost look like coffee beans inset into the pendant. The earrings are solid bronze discs with copper and silver beads. Both the earrings and the pendant are suspended from patinated copper chain. The necklace measures 22” in length, as homage to the longer lengths of jewelry (opera length) worn in the late 1920’s and 1930’s.

I created this set a few weeks ago and have completely enjoyed the experience of wearing it. I’ve received many compliments on the set and a few questions about it. Viewers have described it as sleek, simple, organic, clean, and unusual. A perfect addition to my style! Every time I wear this piece  I’ll be reminded of the studio jewelers who came before me and their commitment to modernist design.